Chanel’s Haute Couture Has Ideas For Brides

Twice a year the pinnacle of fashion specticles takes place in Paris called Haute Couture. The literal translation of this French phrase is “high sewing” which involves painstakingly detailed dressmaking techniques using opulent fabrics, innovative designs and hand finishes. Fashion houses unleash their design prowess at the couture shows and create the most elaborate and challenging creations. It’s like the Super Bowl, the Olympics and the Tour de France of fashion all rolled into one

A client sees something she likes (at the show) and makes an appointment for a fitting at the Atelier. The look is made to order with her exact measurements. These are not pieces you will see in a retail shop—It is a unique garment, made to fit one body only. Minions of dress-makers at the designer’s Parisian atelier are at the ready to hand sew, fit, embroider and tailor the garment to fit like a glove. It’s a painstaking process but the end result is a unique look with lavish detailing and exquisite fabrications. It’s kind of like a bridal fitting on steroids.

There are only a few handfuls of fashion brands that show couture and Chanel, with its wealth of resources and Karl Lagerfeld’s genius at the helm is certainly one of them. The show was held at the usual spot, the Grand Palais in Paris, which was set up like an English garden with a fountain as a center piece,  cross-wood trellises filled with climbing flowers ( probably camellias), ivy filled urns and archways. A carpet of grass surrounded the fountain and served as an apt color contrast against the pastel spring looks. Models sauntered out with ease in low heeled shoes and boots.Tweedy skirt-suits had matching tweedy boots, and each model had a veiled headpiece with a cupcake of flowers on the very top.

The tweed parade was followed by a few chiffon dresses in a kelly green,electric blue, black and orange. Although you would think those brights would jar you out of this dream they somehow worked seamlessly in the show. The evening looks, began in a pallette of ballet pink, whites and pearl gray. A stand-out was a deconstructed tweed suit  worn with copious yards of tulle for a skirt.  The tradition of a bride at the end of the show was not lost here. A feathered sculpture was worn atop of a white slim pant and vest and made for a stunningly unique bride.

For a bride-to-be there is lots of inspiration which can be taken from this show. The veil alone could be a chic and modern addition to a wedding look and seems very doable to recreate. The idea of adding black gloves with pastel looks and the use of feathers both can be easily translated to wedding.

Chanel’s Haute Couture show is a session in creativity more than anything for brides to be— there is a  wealth of ideas to cull from, for the wedding ceremony and for your bridal look. It’s a delight to see the mind of Mr. Lagerfeld at work with his 360 approach to fashion shows. It’s not just about the clothing but the sets, the venue, the music and of course the fashion which come together to create one awe-inspiring experience. A fashion show is similar to a a wedding— there is a theme, decor to fit the theme, music and the parade of well dressed people, all to create a memorable event that people soon won’t soon forget.


View the show video here

World Bride magazine



Photos courtesy of Chanel

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Gray Matters: Gray Heads on the Runway

It’s men’s show time in Florence, Milan and Paris and the runways are filled with prepubescent models wearing clothing that they likely can’t afford and are not interested in. Luxury brands like Hermes, Vuitton, Lanvin and you name it designer present on slender models who are chosen deliberately for their slim or not fully developed bodies.This is unscientific but I recall growing from age 16 to 20 so to my mind bodies are not fully adult until they hit 20. So why do designers chose boys to model men’s clothing ?

MILAN, ITALY – JANUARY 14: A model, sunglasses detail, walks the runway at the Billionaire show during Men’s Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2018/19 on January 14, 2018 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Pietro D’Aprano/Getty Images for Billionaire)

I came across the Italian collection by Philippe Plein called Billionaire and stopped in my tracks because of the obvious difference. The male models had gray hair and acted perfectly confident and cool as they modeled the clothing which they look like they can afford to buy. The presentation was not a parade of shell-shocked expressionless teens with underdeveloped bodies . No, these guys inhabited the clothing with confidence.

MILAN, ITALY – JANUARY 14: A model, sunglasses detail, walks the runway at the Billionaire show during Men’s Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2018/19 on January 14, 2018 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Pietro D’Aprano/Getty Images for Billionaire)

As a fashion stylist, I usually work with size 40 reg or 42 reg ( that’s their suit jacket size) male models but designer clothing never fits on the models in their 30’s. I work on more mainstream publications, ads and celebrities, but because the runway samples are cut to fit the slender bodies of the young boys, I can’t use those brands to style.

caption id=”attachment_1933″ align=”alignleft” width=”640″] MILAN, ITALY – JANUARY 14: Models are seen backstage ahead of the Billionaire show during Men’s Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2018/19 on January 14, 2018 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Tristan Fewings/Getty Images for Billionaire)[/caption]

Actually I’m a proponent of the movement to present older humans on the runway in general. Maye Musk is a female silver haired superstar in my book, and modeled at the women’s shows at NYFW She shocked  audiences out of the monotony of sleepwalking models when she walked confidently down the runway at Concept Korea and other shows.

MILAN, ITALY – JANUARY 14: Models are seen backstage ahead of the Billionaire show during Men’s Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2018/19 on January 14, 2018 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Tristan Fewings/Getty Images for Billionaire)

Although I spend way too much time covering up gray hairs, I hope that seeing older humans portrayed in a positive and fashionable light  will one day allow me to be unchained from my colorist and proudly display who I am without fear of judgement from   powerful millennials  who are in positions of calling the shots and of hiring.



MILAN, ITALY – JANUARY 14: A model is seen backstage ahead of the Billionaire show during Men’s Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2018/19 on January 14, 2018 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Tristan Fewings/Getty Images for Billionaire)

MILAN, ITALY – JANUARY 14: Models are seen backstage ahead of the Billionaire show during Men’s Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2018/19 on January 14, 2018 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Tristan Fewings/Getty Images for Billionaire)

MILAN, ITALY – JANUARY 14: A model is seen backstage ahead of the Billionaire show during Men’s Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2018/19 on January 14, 2018 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Tristan Fewings/Getty Images for Billionaire)

MILAN, ITALY – JANUARY 14: Models are seen backstage ahead of the Billionaire show during Men’s Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2018/19 on January 14, 2018 in Milan, Italy. (Photo by Tristan Fewings/Getty Images for Billionaire)

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Van Cleef and Arpels Little Creatures


One of the requisites of making adorable jeweled creatures for Van Cleef & Arpels is to let childlike fancy guide the designs. VCA entrusts Nicolas Bos, Creative Director and chief imaginary officer with this job so that jewelry groupies will grace their lavish salons. What better story to re-tell in gemstones than the biblical tale of Noah’s Ark which doubles the cute factor with two creatures for the price of one. In the brand’s native tongue the project is called, L’Arche de Noé racontée. [ 377 more words ]


Noah’s ark jeweled animals
photo courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels

Because nature— animals and botanicals are motifs used in their jewelry throughout their history, the idea of recreating Noah’s ark with the animals, two by two, fits perfectly with their ethos. The menagerie with over 60 jeweled animals along with 3 imaginary creatures ( Pegasus in sapphires) are fashioned into brooches or as they call them—pins. An installation created by artist Robert Wilson was part of this project and  can be viewed until Nov 19, 2017  in New York. 

Van Cleef & Arpel’s loves the magical, the enchanted, the charming. They tell fairy tales with gems and jewels. Case in point the “Secrets” collection— each piece has a hidden functionality; a little surprise for the lucky owner. It’s not enough that jewelry adorns these days—it needs to entertain too. Link to the animated video is below. 

 It begins with a Tinkerbell like sprite, fluttering around each piece revealing the secrets. An articulated petal of a flower, a bird that shows her baby chick or a necklace’s center reveals a ring—these are a few. Their strong sense of whimsical and magical is key in distinguishing themselves from other legacy brands and they continue to do this with Noah’s Ark. 

Back to the biblical. Many of the brooches are entwined animals as doubles but most  singular in a fabulous feat of jewelry ability. There are raccoons who each sit on a cabochon of spessartite garnets and pink tourmalines, cute lapins (rabbits) with diamonds and onyx, regal zebras with diamonds lapis lazuli, onyx, and diamond, sapphire and emerald encrusted koalas to name just a few who will be entering the Ark. They are truly a delight to see and all have the hefty “ price upon request” which is code for don’t ask.

The preview included a Q+A with artist Robert Wilson, who is known to have shaped the worlds of opera and theatre, Nicholas Bos, and moderated by Emmy Award Nominated Filmmaker and Author, Katharina Otto.  Robert spoke about his approach and why he kept the ark small within the room. A thunderous crash followed by a black-out of light added a monumental element to the installation. It makes one think about the deluge event that initiated Noah’s rescue mission.


You can experience Noah’s ark in jewels until Nov 19 at Cedar Lake Gallery in New York . For more info click

Noah’s ark jeweled animals
photo courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels







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The Costume Institute’s Rei Kawakubo Comme des Garcon is Off and Running


I was never invited to the Comme des Garcon show when I attended Paris fashion weeks. Even when I worked under Amy Spindler at the New York Times who would make a call to the CDG office to request one for me—it didn’t happen. She was arguably one of the most powerful fashion journalists of her time, so if she couldn’t make it happen then no one could. Despite sneaking into one of the shows to see what all the reverence was about and being educated in Yohji, Comme and Undercover by my editors one of which was Franz Ankone, I never really got it. At the time I was into more conventional  fashion. That didn’t mean I couldn’t get the intellectual messages at a runway show. I was a big fan of Miuccia Prada, Hussein Chalayan and Alexander McQueen all of whom presented runway shows that made goose bumps appear all over your skin and you left with a strong message that you couldn’t shake. I was clear that a fashion show was about more than the clothing but Comme des Garcon was odd in a way I couldn’t understand. I suppose it was like looking at a Picasso and not getting his cubist interpretations. I just wasn’t a fan.



But today at The Met’s Costume Institute’s preview, Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garcon Art of the In-Between, I saw a true artist’s retrospective. It’s easy enough to make a dress that follows the human form, but to use the form as a means to explore a subject is as cerebral as it gets. And to wear a CDG creation is a social statement not an enhancement of a female body. That is not to say that they are not a viable at retail. The “Play” collection with it’s whimsical heart logo on sneakers and t-shirts has become a favorite with teens. The Dover Street Market (an international shop) is a construct of Rei’s partner and sells both Comme and other highly regarded fashion brands like Gucci.



Today at the preview the former ambassador to Japan, Caroline Kennedy spoke as well as the Costume Institute’s curator, Andrew Bolton. The exhibition space was spare with white washed walls and alcoves which displayed mannequins in different groupings.  The simplicity of the space and the way it is displayed with bright natural light added to the impact of the artful fashion. Dates were not given to the looks to underscore timelessness.






My opinion of  Rei Kawakubo and Comme des Garcon has evolved as I have. She uses clothing to express her message and pushes the boundaries of the normal. Her work challenges us and we need that more than ever. In our instafame-fast-fashion-botox-Kardashian world, seeing this retrospective is a worthwile respite and reminder that we must think and see deeper, question the normal, and live with more meaning than what is on the surface.   Continue reading

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Uniqlo Brings Fashion Innovator JW Anderson into the Fold

courtesy of Uniqlo

“People need a real reason to buy clothing”, said a Uniqlo spokesperson at the fall/winter press announcement event. In a world where our closets look like boutiques stockpiled with every clothing category—there is nothing truer. A good reason to eek out some space in the drawer may be fashion innovator, JW Anderson who is now collaborating with the Japanese mass retailer known for the ubiquitous down jacket. Collaborations in fashion are as common as bread and butter and announcements like this seem like a marketing ploy to drum up short term business. But Uniqlo doesn’t partner indiscriminately. Case in point their relationship with model Ines DeLa Fressange, whose navy blue Frenchie separates are a hit with women for several years.


Uniqulo’s uniform approach to dressing attracts a steady flow of customers, whether for their feather light $69 portable down jackets, or “heat tec” underwear which sells out frequently during a particularly cold New York winters. The latest marriage will hopefully bring a bit of an edge to the simplified basics. “When I think of things that are perfectly made, that people have spent a lot of time considering: it’s a difficult  job, and I think Uniqlo does it very well. Working with Uniqlo is probably the most incredible template of democracy in fashion and it’s nice that my designs can be accessible to anyone on all different levels,” said Anderson in a short film clip screened at the gathering  attended by journalists and influencers. Not a bad idea from the slow retailer with favorites like a ribbed  cotton mock neck for $10, pencil jeans for $39. Even more interesting if Anderson will  bring a bit more urban edge to the affordable Uniqulo fold—from the looks seen at the gathering, it's a done deal.

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Pirch —The Ultimate Top-Shelf Appliance Showroom



IMG_1296 When my husband insisted on a Bluestar “cook’s” range that I’ve now named “the dragon” because of the many burns received while putting food in its mouth, I could not convince him otherwise. His point was that it would be the centerpiece of the kitchen and increase the value of our house not to mention it may help in becoming more chef than home cook. I thought that spending $8,000 on an oven range was basically insane. But I was clearly wrong. Seems oodles of people spend 5 or more times that figure and need their appliances to also look the part too.

Tonight I was thrown off my pirch thinking we had a top of the line range in our humble Brooklyn home. I had no idea that ovens could rise to $50,000. But that is just what one will find at PIRCH, a new concept in luxury appliance showroom which debuted tonight in Soho. It’s sprawling élite space carries brand names like Viking, Thermidor, Bosch and more. But that’s not all. To make your decision process immersive, you can arrange to actually test out the items before purchase. As in—- taking a shower or cooking a meal on one of the fancy machines. So buyers won’t have to endure the pains that I have had to with my fire-breathing dragon which now turns every single cake that has gone into its orifice into a charcoal blackness.

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Here Elsewhere Hermes

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There is a reason Hermes, the French purveyor of beautiful things and the gold standard for luxury goods remains on top of the luxury heap. They are at the pinnacle  in terms of profits, desirability and awesome products because they set themselves apart. They are the leaders—while the fashion bandwagon is standing on their head to get a sliver of attention from millennials, Hermes is content to surround themselves with the smart and accomplished  who are also the persona of their customer.

The brand’s instagram feed is experimental and whimsical and appeals to the artful and intelligent who also has the means to invest in their slow brand of products. Slow to produce; time is a commodity that is needed to wait on lists to acquire a Birkin or a finely crafted settee. One such insta-post shows handsome male models at the beach around a cubist sandcastle. Promoting the clothing seems secondary to the scene which is captioned “be the king of the castle—time to take the throne.#Hermesmanifest.” Or another post shows a model swinging too and fro with feet teasing boots and shoes. In a smoky mirrored room the video titled,”The Swing” plays. The brand is not immune to hashtags and promoting products but somehow you don’t ever feel a blatant marketing ploy.

I was invited to the ” HermesHereElsewhere” installation which was a night to show off their latest home and furniture goodies, and there was no question I would attend. At Cedar Lake event space in Chelsea the artist, Robert Wilson, set up a surrealist circus for the night. There were taxidermy parrots sitting on the shoulders of men who sat at a jewelry cabinet, so elaborate and refined, the imagined purchaser can only be a middle eastern queen. Past the flying sofa with a lady reclining on the ground grasping for feathers, another room revealed wall to wall video screens. Smack dab in the middle was a undulating dancer on a platform in this completely circular massive space.

My favorite part of these events is the well-heeled ladies and gentlemen who attend. I’m never sure of who they are—many have come from the mother ship in Paris. But they are quiet, sophisticated and exude a self assurance that I don’t see very much press events where the object is to flank the room with celebrities in skimpy clothing. The room is quiet and respectful and you feel something important is happening. I do note Robert Chavez, CEO for the Americas and Alexi Dumas, the Creative Director and part of the dynasty in attendance but the un-trendiness seems completely on trend. I always feel at home and completely grateful to have seen the show.

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